Buttonhole-sewing machine.



N0. 806,231. PATENTED DEC. 5', 1905..

' E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 17, 1904.

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No. 306,231; A PATENTEE DEE.5,1905.

- E E. E. ALLEN. 4

EUTTONEOEE SEWING MACHINE.

AEPLIGATION FILED MAY 17, 1904.

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PATENroEEICE.

EDWARDUB. lALLEN, oEQ ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, AssIeNoR To THE vSINGER `MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OFl NEW JERSEY.

VTo @ZZ` whom it may concern.:

' `Be it known that I, EDWARD B. ALLEN, a

4 citizen'of-the United States, residing at Eliza-` beth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain newA and useful @Improvements in- Buttonhole- Sewingl Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings. f

This invention relates to an improvement in @buttonhole .stitching and barring machines; fand it has-for its .primaryobject to provide means whereby the action of the barring devices may be Wholly interrupted or may be controlled to producey any given number of stitches. It also has forits object to effect the linterruption or the continuance of the feeding action at the endsof a buttonhole. It has for 4its further object the control of the stop-motion device for action independently -of the The barred buttonhole, as commercially known, is composedfof two lines of ,sidev -stitches covering 'the edges of the buttonholelslit and series of .intermediate reinforcing lor barring stitches of substantially uniform-v ylength disposed crosswise at the end or ends of'the slit intermediatey the lines of side stitches.` In the `more common and approved form of barred buttonhole the individual `bai"- rring-stitches are materially longer than the side stitches, so that their opposite ends may 'be anchored in the material upon opposite sides of and suiiiciently fariv from the line-of,

the buttonhole slit to insure the eective strengthening of the material at theend of the .slit where it is subjected to the greatest strain. The barring-stitchesv are usually crowded or, bunched together by the arrest of the relative longitudinal feed of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work; although in some. cases -the normal longitudinalI feeding movement is j .continued i-n the production of the barringstitches, which are properly located inline -with the end of the slit by the mere 4lateral shifting of the stitch-forming devices in re- -lationto the Work. As commercially known, -the unbarred buttonhole comprisesa series of overseaming stitches of uniform lengthex- -tending uninterruptedly entirely. around the Specification of Letters Patent;v `'lpplicatioii iile. May17, 1904. SerialzNc. 208,366. g l

There are two generally-recognized classesv BuTToNHoLE-SEWING MACHINE.

buttonhole-slit Without the bunching or crowd- .Patented Dec. 5, 1905.

ing of stitches at the ends of the slit to form a bar or stay, being produced by the employment ofV uniformly-acting overseaming mechi' anis'm' in conjunction with continuously-acting' mechanism for producing a constant relative feedof the work and stitch-forming mechanism in a .pattern corresponding with the shape of the stitched buttonhole without pause for producing a succession of reinforcing-stitches at the end of the buttonhole. Heretofore the mechanism employed for stitching these different types of buttonholes has been such as `to require separate and independent machines for each class of such work, a singlemachine being unadapted for use interchangeably in producing both kinds of buttonholes. has necessitated Athe duplication of machines for producing a given quantity of Work in order to enable manufacturersof garments to handle satisfactorily the diiierent classes of work required.

This l In devising the present improvement I believe myself to have been the iirstto provide a buttonhole-stitching machine capable of producing .both classes of straight buttonholes, whereby a single machine may be readlily'adjusted to'stitch an unbarred buttonhole or a buttonhole having barredfendscomprising groups of stitches of any given maximum.v .A I The invention conslsts 1 n thedevlces herein'shown and described for eecting such objects.

In the drawings annexed, vation of abuttonholestitching and barring machine embodying. the present improvement with certain Yportions broken out to show. the construction and arrangement of parts behind thelsa'me. Fig. 2 is a plan of the lu'nder side of the machine, and Fig. 3 a top view ofthe feed-.cam and its connections with the work-clamp slides. Fig. 4 is a plan, upon a'larger scale, of the forward portion of the overhanging arm with thecap-plate ofthe casingv inclosing the timing mechanism of the barring devices-removed. Fig.` 5 is a partial planlviewy of the overhang-ing arm vwith the ,cap-plate of the barring-mechanism casing and the parts above the -s'arne in position. Fig. 6 is a transverse section throughthe arm .ofthe machine lon the axial line ofthe feedshaft. Fig.' 7 .isa detail view ofy a portion of theffeed-.actuating mechanism, and Fig. Sis a number up to a 'I Figure 1 is an ele- IOO lunbarred buttonholes.

My present improvement is shown applied to a buttonhole stitching and barring machine adapted to workl straight buttonholes, as shown and described in my United States PatentsiNo. 738,591, of September 8, 1903; No. 743,213, of November 3, 1903, and N0.757,171, of April 12, 1904.

In conjunction with the usual side-stitching mechanism comprising the stitch forming and feeding devices I have provided means for controlling the operation of said mechanism at the end of each side-stitching operation, which may consist of either barring mechanism of special character capable of being readily set to permit the continued operation of the side-stitching mechanism throughout the cycle ofthe machine or for interrupting such operation for the production of a given number of bar-stitches intermediate the side-stitching operations, vor of the usual barring mechanismeombined with means adjustable to prevent the normal operation of the latter in providing periodically forV the production of bar-stitches. The machine is constructed with the work-plate 2, overhanging arm 3, driving-shaft 4, having the usual crankand-pitman connections with the needle-bar 7, having the needle 8 and carried by the swinging frame or gate ct, mounted .on pivotal centers 9 10 and deriving its swinging movements from the cam-wheel 11, geared to the shaft4 and having a cam-groove 12, entered by a pin or stud 13 on anV arm of the lever or rocker having its fulerum or eenterof motion at 14 and connected, through the link-bar 15, slotted swinging arm 16, and link 17, with an arm 18 of the needle-bar frame, the link 17 being adjustable to and from the screw-stud 21, upon which the arm 16 is pivoted by means of the -screw 19, entering the-slot in said arm. The bar 15 is pivotally connected at its forward end to the swinging arm 16 by the screw 22. The lever or rocker bis provided with two pins k23 and 24, the latter being adjustable, located at different distances from the fulcrum or eenter of motion 14 of said lever or rocker, and the bar 15 is provided with notches 25 and 26 for lalternate engagement with said pins.

The bar 15 is normally held by a spring 20 in side-stitching position with the narrow part of the notch 25 embracing the pin 23, and the said bar is at the proper times automatically shifted to barring position,with the contracted portion of the notch 26 embracing the pin 24. To this end the bar 15 is provided with a pin 28, arranged to be engaged b v aspring-pressed pawl 29, pivotally connected with the upper end of the bent lever 30, fulcrumed in brackets 31 on the arm 3, an inturned linger upon the-lower portion of said lever being held by means of the stiff spring 35 in peripheral contact with the double snail-cam 32, mounted upon the vertical shaft 33, carrying the feedwheel 60 and rotating therewith, the feedwheel imparting to the work-clamp the usual longitudinal feeding and lateral shifting movements.

At the end of the lirst side-stitching operation the cam 32 has caused the pawl 29 to move inward to enable its hook or shoulder to engage the pin 28 on the bar 15, the passing of one of the shoulders of the earn 32 under. the lower portion of the lever 30 permitting the latter under the impulse of the spring 35,which is stronger than the spring 20, to tilt upon its pivotal connection with the brackets 31-and through the pawl 29 and pin 28 to draw the bar 15 outward into engagement with the pin 24 and out of engagement with the pin 23, so as to increase the throw of the needle-bar frame to form the barring-stitches.

The number of stitches for each bar is governed by a ratchet-wheel 36, provided with a curved controlling-plate 37, let into a corresponding groove 39 in the top of said wheel, in respect of which it is adjustable by means of a set-screw entering a segmental slot 38 in the plate 37. The ratchet-wheel 36 is given intermittent forward rotary movements during the barring operations by aspring-pressed operating-pawl 40, mounted on the lever or rocker a detent-pawl 41, pivoted on a screw or stud 42, fixed to the bracket-arm 3, being provided to prevent the return motion of the ratchet-wheel. rI`he operating-pawl 40 is provided with a tripping-arm 43, arranged to bc engaged by a lug or projection 44 on the bar 15, and the detent-pawl41 is provided beyond its operative tooth with a linger or projection 45, adapted to be engaged by the pawl 40 -when the latter is thrown out of operative relation with the wheel 36 to render said wheel free to effect its return movement to initial position under the impulse of the spring 46. (Shown in dotted lines in Fig. 4.)

From the foregoing it will be observed that when the bar 15 is shifted into barring relation its shoulder or projection 44, being withdrawn from engagement with the trippingarm 43, will permit the operating-pawl 40 and detentpawl 41, under the action of their springs 50 and 51, respectively, to drop into operative relation with the ratchet-wheel 36, in which relation they remain until an upwardly-projecting lug 52 upon the controlling-plate 37 by engagement with one arm of a bent lever 53, pivoted at 54 upon the cap- IUC *maar e' f plate 55,' causesv th'e turning movement of such lever, so that its other arm engages the con# tact-finger 47 of the pawl member 29,. which operates to release the pin 28 to permit. the bar to return to initial position under the action of the spring 20, the engagement of its shoulder or Aprojection 44With the trippingarmv43 serving to throw out of action the operating-pawl and detent-pawl 41, thereby position of 'the' ratchet-Wheel, Which ,in turn. 2O

-my former patents'before mentioned.

permitting theratchet-Wheel 36, under the ac/ tion of its spring 46, to return to initial position With'the `shoulder 49 ofv the peripheral notchthereinin engagement with the adjustable stop-pin 48Vprojecting through a slot 56 in the cap-plate from apointer-arm 57,-by

which it is carried. YThe position of the-stoppin 48, as indicated bythev 4scale fin con-junctionsWith the pointer57, determines theinitial the depending 'arml 155 is-connected vby theu pitman 156 adjustably by means of a Set-screw y1 57'vvith the slotted vswinging arm v58, vpivoted upon? the `feed-shaft k33,;ben'eath, the feedzcam 60. Each projection' 61 ofthearm58 isfengaged'by the inner endof-a clutch-'dog 62o`f .which theouter end is slotted-to embracethe circular lrib; ,or iia'nge 63 of vthe' feedfcam 60, these clutch-dogs in-,conjunction :with the vibrating projectionsl and springs 64serving movements to the. feed-vvheelf- A- g It is evident that inv the machine as herein represented -the-number-of shoulders o r pro.- jections upon the cam 32 Will Vdetermine the 4to impart intermittent orfstepfby-'step rotary' number of bars in the buttonholeszproduced,

the provision of'onlyl one of such- Shoulders or projections causing only a-single barring ope eration in the cycle ofthe machin'e'in cases 5o whereinf-theproducti'on of buttonholes is required havingfonenplain and, one barred en d, suchas Aare sometimes demanded by the trade. rlhe rod151 has a notch' 65,v entered by the lug 66 of the lever- 67, pivoted to the rod or part 152, -such lug being normally held infits notch by aspring 68, acting on said lever 67 to couple together the two sections-151 and 152 of thetWo-partconn'ectingfrod .thereby formed. When the bar 15 is.shifted laterally Y from side-stitching position ,tol barringposition, its tail-engages thev upper vend of; the. le-

ver '67, and thereby-withdraws its lug 66r.f.ro ml thenotc'h 65, whereby the 'rOd1-51 is, caused Vtovmove idly in the'socket ofthe rod 152, and

the feeding movement-orme feedcam 6.0 s

thereby interrupted, and the restoration'of the bar '15 to initial or side-stitching position similarly causesthe lever 67, under the action of its spring 68, to return the lug 66 to its notch 65 in the rod,151,*Whereby-the sections of the two-.part feedfact'uating rod are recoupled and the actuation of the feed ,mechanism is con' tinued..

To communicate' tothe vvork-clamp the reql u'isite longitudinal feeding'A movements, the

feed-'Wheel 60 has in its upperfface 'a camgroove 69, enteredby a pin or roller stu-d 70 ori-the arm 71 ofA a clamp-feeding lever pivotedfto-the' workfplate y2`Withthe curved and slotted-arm. 72, having adjustably connected theretoaone endjof a pitman 73, -With its other, end attached' to a pin o r 'stud 74, depending plate 75, which slides longitudinally in a transverse plate 76, mounted for lateral sliding movement on the `Work-plate 2.' The lateral or shiftingmov'ementsof theclamp ,arede-f rear endia pinor roller stud entering lsaid camz-groove and havlng at its AforWard'end-a` `rived from a cam-groove 77 in the feed-Wheel `60` through a shifting lever 78, having-:at-its connectionwith'the transverse plateor slide p v 76 bynieans ofa set-screw'7 9, enteringa slot infsaidplate or slide. :The shifting leverf78. swings on an adjustable fulcrum-block 8 0 of vWell -known form.; The plate 75carries `a YWork-clamp 89, which may be of any suitable construction.' f 1 1 L vThe stitch-forming mechanism, as shown herein,comprise s the needle 8, already referred to', and complemental lock-stitch mechanism of the Wellfknown f binge-r27 oscillating-shut- IOG tle typethe latter-not being specifically illusent invention.v l

' AsqthusY far describedjit'will be observed that themach ine vcomprises the stitch-forming mechanism-, jogvproducing mechanism, and cyclefeeding mechanism, Aadapted lwhen all are allowed to remain in unchanged relation for the Wholelcyclefof operation of the machine'toproduce a buttonhole havingstitches of substantially uniform length and spacing `trated herein, -as it formsnofpart ofthe pres-y throughout, combined with means for effectf' ingthe lengthening and subsequent shortening ofthe' relative joggingf movements of the' needle-and the Workfand theperiodical arrest of the relative longitudinal feeding and lateral shifting movementsat theoppositeaends of the buttonhole, In speaking hereinfofinteri rupting or arresting'theaction of the feeding mechanism during; the formation ofthe bar I donotwish to bemnderstood as limiting myself to bringing thefs'ame to absoluterest, althoughrlpreferto do so. .4

As shoWn'inmyPatent No.1743,213;,'0f NQ- vember 3,1903,; the-stopfmotiondevice of the present machine comprises a lever 1.01, pivotally mountedoncenter screws 5, tapped vin `earsg on Atherar 111:33,of ,the machine, said. lever, 4

carrying a vertically-movable rod or plunger 102, cooperating with a cam 1:03, rotating with the pulley 10.4, fast on thedriwing-slraft of the machine and adjacent to which fast pulley' is a loose pulley 105.. The lever-101 is provided with a belt-shifting arm 106 and with a second arm 107, to which isy connected atreadle-operated rod 108. The rod 102 is pressed upward by a spring 109,. encircling said rod, andthe upper end of said rod.` isiitted to entera peripheralznotch 110, formed in the camz103, whichy may be` yiel'dingl-iy connected` with the fastV pulley 10ft throughl a. bnife'rspring in the man-ner furllydescrifbed in United States Patent No. 541,276, so as to soften or cushion the impact of the.stopping-operation. The stop-motion lever 1.01 isheld in inopera-tive positioaagainstthe stress of' the-spring 111 when the" machineis running byv a springpressed latchl or' levery 112, which enters a lateral notch 114, formed in: the-rod' 108, and the feed-wheel 60fis provided with a tripping-lug 161, which is arranged to engage a toe-piece 113'. on said latch or lever 1:12 when the machine. is to.L be stopped.. The toe-piece 113; is sho-wn formed on a plate 162, adjustably secured tothe latch. or lever-1152,. so as; to. vary the timing of the trippingaction of the stopmotion device to. accommodate different lengths of buttonhiol'es. The latchl or lever 11,2,is' yielding-ly hel'd in engagement with the rod 108- by a spring 1,631.

lIn starting the machine the lever 101 is thrown. backward from its initial position to disengage the. rod -or plunger 1012y from its notch. in the cam 1308 by drawing down the rod 108 connected' with. said lever until thev latch or lever 112 snaps into itsnotch,- thereby locking the: lever 101 in inoperativel position, with its belt-shifter 106 in position toguidcthe driving-belt' upon thev fixed pulley 104 .for actuating the` driving-shaft 4'.. The stop-motion remains in this position until the latchlever 11.2 is: tripped engagement of the tripping-l-ug'161 with they toe-piece-Il, when the tail of the lever'112 islwi-thdrawn from its notch in the rod 108:' andthe lever 1011 is permitted under the impulse of. thezspringlll to. return to the:y initial position and to arrest the motion of thedriving-shaftina manner well known. The trippinglug- 161 is so:A disposed upon the peripheryl of the feed-cam as to trip the stop-motion device for stopping the machinejustafter they feeding mechanism is thrown into action at the completion of the second barring operation.

1f it; bedcsired to stop the machine by reason of breakage of the. thread or for any other causefduring'a buttonhole-stitching operation and before the stop-motion device would normally he. automatically releasedl by the stopping-lug 16:1 on the feed-wheel 60, the stop-motion. dev/ice can be: tripped man.- ually by a hand-lever 177., the forward. part 178 of which is arranged to im-pinge against the latch-lever 112, and thus Withdraw the latter from holding` engagement with the notched rod 108.

found impracticable to perform these several kinds of work upon the same' machine. By the present improvement, however, I have provided means whereby anynumber of barstitches' up toa given maximum may be formedintermediatetheseries ot side stitches, or the bar-stitches may be wholly omitted.

Forthe` temporary useof the machine when the-work requires the omission of'bar-stitches, the slot 56 in the cover-plate 55 for the stopstud 48L being extended suii-cien'tly far backward towardy the rearof the overhanging arm il,y the pointer-arm 57 may be set in theI dotted-line or zero position, (indicated in Fig. 5,)

' in which position its. enlarged portion carrying the stud48 serves as astop against which the bent lever 53 rests in opposition to the spring Ltof thcuratchet-wheel 36, whichlever in turn bythe engagement of its downturned ingerwith the contact-linger 17 of the pawl.- leverv 29 in opposition to the action of the spring 59 maintains the pawl-lever 29 in inoperative relation to the stud 28 upon the bar 15,- whereby the reciprocation of such pawllever, under the action of' thesnail-cam 32.

and spring 35, fails to produce the periodical shiftingof they bar 15. from side-stitching to barring position, and hence wholly interrupts the normal automatic operation of the barring and feed-interrupting devices. Thus while the spring-actuated bent lever 53 is wholly' unaffected inl its normal operation by the pointer-arm 57 in the adjustment of the latter` for thenormal operation of the barring mechanism in the production of barred butto'nholes the shitting of the pointer-arm to zero position brings-it into the path of normal movement of thel lever 53, wherein it constitutes astop for preventing the movement of such leven, with the result above described.

When it is desired to maintain entirely out of action the barring and feed-interrupting devices, the operation of the lever 30' may be suspended by introducing under its lower end thel notched lower extremity of a lever 81, having at its'opposite endan aperture entered by the enlarged shank portion of the shouldered fastening-screw 82, serving to hold the usual. side co-ver83in position, a spring-washer 84 being interposed between the-said lever and theheadof thefastening-screw 82. The stoplever is shown provided withI a handle 85 and with a hole 86 intermediate its ends for cop- IIO machine may be operated eration with projections Si?, formed -upon vthe covern8'3, as indicated in Figs. `1 and 8,'to retain such lever yieldinglyin its operative -and'inoperativepositions,respectively, in and out of engagement with the llever 30. .means of this stop-lever', the wear upon the operative partsof the barring and feedginter-'y rupting devices lis Wholly removed, and the connection with VWork requiring production of a continuous overseam around theentire i buttonhole. and Without successions of' superbe produced.

`posed stitches at the ends, themechanism thus maintained out of normal action not being..

subjected to the Wear which would otherwise d It is always desirable in practice to. provide means for adjustment of the, number of barstitches in conjunction with .means for throvving the barring mechanism into and. out ofi effective operation, and therefore thefadjust-- able stop-pin 48, carried by the `pointer-arm 57,.is' preferably employed in conjunction With vthestop-lever 81vvl1ereby the machine is not q only fitted to produce bars comprisingstitches Y .of variable number, depending upon the class of work operated upon, but the operation of its entiretrain of barring mechanism under the actuation of the cam BZ-may be suspended l -by the enforced inaction-.ofthe primary rnembarred buttonholes. yIt therefore evident;

thatfthe stop-lever `81 maybe addedto the barringmechanism of thepresentmachine as embodied in l my former patent, No. 757,171, before Amentioned for producing theeifect above described,or suchformer constructionE be modied, as indicated in Fig. 5- of the i accompanying drawings, to extend the limits -of adjustment of the controlling device for the barringmechanism, when the. stop-lever 815 may be dispensed With .excepting i ncases wherein the machine is designed `to.y be Vused for long periods With. the automatic barringI mechanisminactive. It isevidently immaterial to What particular spring-'actuated memy ber of the barring. or feed-interrupting mech.` anisms is.. applied the stop member, .such as the lever 81 or the pointer-.arm 157,*as, the desired resultk will be attained` by throwing out of actionany` member of the train .intermedate'the timing-cam and thepartonparts to beaifected.

Having thus described the construction,- ar-` rangement, and mode of operation ofthe several parts 'of the machine as embodying the, preferred form of the present improvement,

it will be observed that the characteristic feature of that portion `ofthe invention relating tothe control of thel barring and feedingmechanisms consists .in the normallyoperative -membersfor controlling .the number of Vbarstitches to be producedand comprising the.

` shifting and tuning devicesfor. determining for long periods in throughout the cycle ofthe machinefthe positions of the swinging and reciprocatinglinkbarl5 during the stitching of each bar of the buttonhole in conjunction vvvith the means described. vfor locking in inoperative position one ofgthe normal-ly operative members of such shifting andtiming devices, solas to prevent .the operation of the barring and feed-interrupting mechanisms, thesame comprising 'in thepresent embodiment either the stop-lever A81, adapted to engage the shift-lever 30, or the `enlargedhead, of. the pointer-arm 57,adapted to serve as-a stop for the tripping-.lever 53 to prevent engagement. ofthe pawl 29, with its pm 28 upon the link-bar 15, either, of'Which means is adapted to be set for rendering operative or inoperative at Will the said normally operative member of the mechanism. It will thus be seen that the particular construction and arrangementof parts herein' .shown-and described arenot essential. to the present 1nvention, nor'is the particular type lof stitching and barring machine inconnection with Whichrit-is herein disclosed..

While ai feature of special importance ofV the present .improvementis the capacity of the. machine for stitching eitherbarred or unbarred buttonholes at Will bya simple adjust.- ment of one of itsmembers the inaction of anymember or members of'the barring mechanism'in the.V stitching of, u-nbarredbuttonholes rendersit also importantthat the stopmotion devicebe trippedbymeans other than .any member normally; actuated or controlled by such a part Vof the barring mechanism, as

described in my prior United States Patent,v

NQg 738,591, before mentioned, in which 4the action ofi the barring mechanism was essenf tialtoeffect the, tripping of the stopmotion for insuring the production of theseveral ,groups of stitches comprising a commercial stitchedbuttonhole; yThe terms -unbarred7 and barle'ss as vherein applied to buttonholes are Vnot to-.be -literallyunderstood as descriptive of incomplete buttonholes having,onlyftvvo parallel linesof sidestitchesfvvholly unconnected at --the ends, but those commercially so designated as comprising the usualA Vparallel v lines of side stitches connected at the endsby o nefor more crossstitcheswhich are not bunch ed-or crowd- `editogether to form a stay and are; produced during a continuous vrelative shifting movement ofthe Work and stitch-forming'mechanism,.whereby no twofof suchintermediate stitches are formed in -the line of 5 the slit intermediate the Side stitches, In other Words,

Athe unbarred 0r barlessbuttonhole is Yherein to be understood as a Vbuttonhole ofv Wh-ich 'each of the :component /overseam-sti-tches is .spacedfrom the adjacent stitches by means of -a constant9 relative-movement of the stitchforming mechanismandthe work throughout thestitching operaton, arelative lateralshiftingzmovement intermediate.theeidefstitching operations beingef'tected at the ends of the.

vbuttonhole preparatory to the production of each crossing stitch.

As herein represented, the production of the stitches constituting the bar or stay is effected at an end of the buttonhole by arresting the longitudinal feed and lateral shifting movements of the work and simultaneously increasing the lateral throw of the needle to produce overseam-stitches of increased length, and the essential change of the relative movement between the stitch forming and feeding devices to produce the barring-stitches is that whereby the normal continuous shifting movement of the working position of the needle intermediate the production of the parallel lines of side stitches is interrupted to effect the production of a succession of crowded or superposed cross-stitches intermediate the lines of side stitches.

As will be readily understood, the unbarred buttonhole, as above described, is applied in practice only to'garments, such as underwear, which are subjected to little or no strain in ordinary use and do not, therefore, require the reinforce or bar to give requisite strength, such as is necessary in various other classes of garments.

Having thus set forth the invention, what I claim herein isl. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with mechanism comprising stitch-forming and cycle-feeding devices operating normally to produce a buttonhole stitched along both sides and across the ends, of a barring device adapted to cause the said mechanism to produce additional stayingstitches across the ends of the buttonhole, controlling means adapted to be set at will to permit or prevent the effective action of said barring device, and a stop-motion device acting independently of said controlling means for effecting the starting and automatic stopping of the machine.

2. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with mechanism comprising stitch-forming and cycle-feeding devices operating normally to produce a buttonhole stitched along both sides and across the ends, of a barring device adapted to cause the said mechanism to produce additional stayingstitches across the ends of the buttonhole, controlling means adapted to be set at will to permit or prevent the effective action of said barring device, and a stop-motion device tripped into action by means of a direct 'connection with a member of the feeding device.

3. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-moving needle, and a continuously-vibrating member from which the lateral movements of said needle are derived through a suitable connection, of a shifting device for automatically changing the point of attachment of the needle connection with said vibrating member to vary the amplitude of the needle movements, controlling means adapted to be set to prevent the action of said shifting device, and a stop-motion device controlled independently of the shifting device.

4. Inabuttonhole-sewingmachine,thecom bination with stitch forming and feeding mechan isms,of a feed-interrupting device normally actuated automatically to periodically arrest the normal operation of the feeding mechanism for a series of consecutive stitches, a device constructed and arranged to be set for rendering said feed-interrupting device either operative or inoperative, and a stop-motion device controlled independently of the said feed-interrupting device.

5. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and barring mechanism comprising a plurality of connected members including a spring-actuated member, all in normal operative relation, of a stop adapted to beset into and out of the path of movement of said spring-actuated member of the barring mechanism to prevent the effective operation of the same.

6. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needlebar mounted in a swinging frame deriving its lateral movements from a link connection with a continuously-vibrating lever or rocker, of barring mechanism comprising a spring-actuated member for shifting said link connection of the needle-bar frame with said vibrating lever or rocker to vary the amplitude of the lateral movements of the needle-bar for the side and bar stitches, and a stop device adapted to be set in or out of the path of movement of said spring-actuated member of the barring mechanism to control the action or inaction of said barring mechanism upon said needle-bar frame.

7. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitching and feeding mechanisms, of a device including a spring-actuated member for periodically interrupting the action of the feeding mechanism, and a stop device adapted to be set in and out of the path of movement of said springaetuated member of the feed-interrupting device to control its action or inaction.

8. In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine,thc combination with stitch-forming, feeding and barring mechanisms, of means for causing alternate action and inaction of the feeding and barring mechanisms, the one being at rest while the other is in action, a stopmotion device, and means acting when the feeding mechanism is in operation for tripping the stop-motion device to stop thc machine.

9. In a buttonhole stitching and barring IOO IIO

throughout the cyclez'of the-machine, a stopmotion device, and means controlled from the v feeding mechanism for tripping the stop-motion device to stop the machine.- Y l 10,y In a buttonhole stitching and. barring machine, the combination with the main shaft,

stitch-forming mechanism actuated thereby,

feeding mechanism comprising a cam deriving stepby -step movements from a connectlon with the mam shaft, barrlng mechanism,

means for controlling; the initial actuation. of4

, said barring mechanism, including a connectionwith said cam, andmeans with which said barring mechanism-is provided whereby the operative connection ofthe feed-cam with the main shaft isalternately` interrupted and reestablished, of a stop-motion-device, and means carried by the feed-cam for tripping the same.

11; In a buttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of barring mechanism comprising an actuating member, a train of mechanism normally actuated thereby in the production of barring-stitches, and means acting in conjunction with a member'of said train of mechanism to prevent vthe effective action of said barring mechanism, and a stop-motion device controlled independently of. the barring mechansm. l

y12. Inga lbuttonhole stitching and barring machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of barring mechanism comprising means adapted-to be set to produce groups of bar-stitches varying in number within predetermined limits, and means auxiliary thereto for entirely interrupting the action of said barring mechanism, and a stop-motion device controlled independently of said-barring mechanism.

.13. Ina buttonhole-stitching machine, thei combination with overseaming stitch-forming mechanism and mechanism acting normally to, produce for each stitch a relatlve movementl between the stitch-forming mechanism-and the work,vsaid movements being longitudinal for spacing the side stitches and lateral for-spacing the cross-stitches at an end of the buttonv whereby the interrupting mechanism may be rendered inoperative. f

414:. In a buttonhole-stitching machine,- in

v Combination with stitch-forming and jog-producing mechanisms and cycle-feeding mech-'- anism normally operative throughout the entirev cycle of operation of the machine, con- Ftrolliig-ame'chanism wherebyfsaidj 'cyclefeedingmeclianismfmaybe arrested at an end of the .'-buttonholeg .and means whereby the controlling mech'anisrnlm'ay'be `renderedzinoperative'.-

j15f; :In a buttonhole-stitching machine, y in combination with stitch-forming, jog-producing andcycle-feeding mechanisms whereby a buttonhole having stitches of uniform length may bestitched, means whereby the length of jog may be increased, means whereby the feeding mechanism may be arrested, and means whereby both the jog-lengthening and feed-arresting means may -lbe rendered inopverative. p

16. In a buttonhole stitching machine, in combination with stitch-forming and jog-producing mechanisms and cycle-feeding mechanism normally operative throughout the cycle of operation ofthe machine, and stop-motion mechanism, whereby the stitching of abuttonhole may be produced and stopped, means whereby said'cycle-feeding mechanism may be arrested, and means whereby thev feed-arresting means may be rendered inoperative or may be permittted lto operate.

17. In a buttonholestitching machine,the combination with overseaming stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism acting normally to produce for-each stitch a relative movement between the stitch forming mechanismv andl IOO tonhole, of mechanism whereby the relative lateral movements of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work may be interrupted intermediate the line-s of side stitches, and means -whereby the interrupting mechanism may be rendered inoperative.

18. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with overseamingstitch-forming mechanism,` mechanism acting normally to produce for eachstitcha-relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work, said movements being longitudinal for spacing the side stitches and lateral for spacing the cross-stitches at an end of the buttonhole, anda stop-motion device for stopping the-machine at the completion of abut- IIO tonhole, of mechanism whereby the relative l lateral movements ofthe stitch-forming mechanism and thework may be interrupted intermediate the lines of side stitches, and means whereby the interrupting mechanism may be rendered` inoperative without affecting the op-v eration of said stop-motion' mechanism.

19. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, in

combination with stitch-forming and jog-pronorrnally operative throughout the cycle of operation ofthe machine, and -stop-motion IZO -ducing mechanisms, cycle-feeding mechanismy meehanism,; wherebyvthemstitching. of a `loutonhole mayfbe producedandstoppedglmeans whereby. asaid zcyeleeeding meehani'sm'may be arrested,A and `means whereby the feed-.arresting means may be rendered inoperative without affectingfthe operation ofIsadrstop- ,motionsmechanism :rInztestmonywhereof have signed my name'to-this `:spe'eicmtlon 1n= thepr'esence of :two subscrlbmg Witnesses.

r*EDWARD B. ALLEN.

Witnesses:

:ALFRED C; DARLING,

lHEmwzJ.- MILLER. 

